Sonoma-Marin Tree Service connects property owners with CSLB-licensed local tree service contractors who prune fruit trees and olives, from a handful of backyard apples to old olive rows on wine country properties. Timing does as much work as technique with these trees, so here is how the calendar works.
Dormant pruning vs summer pruning
UC Master Gardener guidance describes two pruning seasons for deciduous fruit trees. Dormant pruning, best in January and February for most species, sets the structure: removing dead and crossing wood, opening the center, and shortening limbs. Dormant cuts tend to push vigorous regrowth. Summer pruning is lighter and slows growth, which makes it the main tool for keeping a tree at a height you can pick from. UC sources note that semi-dwarfing rootstocks control size less than people expect, so pruning does most of that work.
- Apples and pears: main pruning while dormant, with summer cuts to remove vigorous upright shoots.
- Stone fruit: one UC source suggests late February to early March for dormant pruning, since later wounds heal faster.
- Apricots and cherries: UC sources recommend summer pruning, because Eutypa dieback infects wounds made in wet weather.
Summer pruning has a cost: it removes leaves, which can slow ripening and expose fruit to sunburn, so UC guidance keeps it light.
Olive tree pruning
Olives are a different case. They are evergreen, and their main pruning risk here is olive knot, a bacterial disease that causes galls on twigs and branches. UC IPM says it spreads through rain splash and pruning tools in the wet season, recommends pruning in the dry season, July to August, and notes that pruning wounds can stay susceptible for at least 14 days. If pruning cannot wait for summer, UC advises scrubbing and disinfecting blades in a 10 to 20 percent bleach solution before each cut. UC also suggests considering a less susceptible variety than Manzanillo when planting new olives.
Large, old olives often need more than a light trim: thinning dense canopies, lowering trees that have grown out of reach, and removing suckers from the base. That is skilled work on heavy, hard wood, and it is usually spread over more than one season so the tree is not shocked. If an old olive is past saving, see tree removal.
Fire blight and pruning hygiene
Fire blight is a bacterial disease of pears, apples, and related trees that makes shoots look scorched. A UC IPM fact sheet advises cutting infected wood at least 8 to 12 inches below the visible infection. Clean tools between cuts and between trees so the pruner is not the one spreading it. The same habit protects olives from olive knot.
Neglected and heritage fruit trees
Older properties often come with fruit trees that have gone years without pruning, whether in Sebastopol, Healdsburg, Sonoma, or Kenwood. Bringing one back usually takes two or three seasons: dead and broken wood first, then gradual thinning and lowering. Cutting too hard in one year triggers a flush of water sprouts. For shade trees on the same property, see tree trimming and pruning. For the brush pile afterward, see brush chipping.
Who should do the work
Pruning for pay is tree work licensed by the Contractors State License Board; new licenses are issued in the C-49 Tree and Palm classification, and small jobs under $1,000 with no permit and no employees can fall under the minor-work exemption. Before you hire anyone, look the contractor up at cslb.ca.gov and ask for a certificate of liability insurance. Look up any license at cslb.ca.gov.
Orchard or olive overdue for pruning? Call (707) 634-8593 or request an estimate and we'll connect you with a local tree service contractor.
Tree services in Sonoma County & Marin County
- Tree Removal → Removal of dead, leaning, diseased, and unwanted trees, including large oaks, redwoods, and eucalyptus on tight or sloped lots.
- Storm-Damaged & Fallen Tree Removal → Fallen trees, split trunks, hanging limbs, and trees on roofs, fences, or driveways after North Bay winter storms.
- Tree Trimming & Pruning → Crown thinning, deadwood removal, structural pruning, and clearance pruning for oaks, redwoods, and ornamentals.
- Stump Grinding & Removal → Grinding stumps and surface roots below grade so you can replant, lay lawn, or build, plus full stump removal where needed.
- Arborist Reports & Tree Permits → Arborist reports for city and county tree removal permits, protected and heritage trees, and construction near trees.
- Defensible Space & Fire Clearance → Limbing up, juniper and brush removal, dead tree removal, and chipping for Marin evaluations and Sonoma inspections.
- Oak Tree Removal & Sudden Oak Death → Dead and dying coast live oaks, tanoaks, and valley oaks, including Sudden Oak Death losses and protected-oak permits.
- Eucalyptus Tree Removal → Taking down tall, brittle blue gum eucalyptus near homes, roads, and fire zones, and dealing with regrowth.
- Redwood Tree Removal & Trimming → Redwoods crowding foundations, driveways, and sewer lines, thinning redwood groves, and removals where a permit allows.
- Crane Tree Removal → Crane-assisted removals for big trees over houses, on steep hillside lots, and anywhere there is no room to drop or rig.
- Dead & Hazardous Tree Removal → Dead, dying, cracked, and leaning trees that threaten the house, the street, or the neighbors, with the paperwork hazard removals need.
- Roof Clearance & Limb Removal → Lifting limbs off roofs, gutters, chimneys, and decks for fire clearance, insurance letters, and plain peace of mind.
- Tree Risk Assessment → A qualified look at a leaning, cracked, or hollow tree before a storm decides for you, with a written recommendation.
- Lot Clearing & Brush Chipping → Clearing overgrown lots, thinning small trees and brush, and chipping or hauling the debris for building, fire safety, or sale.
- Fruit Tree & Olive Pruning → Dormant and summer pruning for backyard orchards, old olives, and heritage fruit trees on wine country properties.
- Palm Tree Trimming & Removal → Skinning and trimming tall palms, removing dead fronds and seed pods, and taking out palms that have outgrown the lot.
- Tree Cabling & Bracing → Support systems for split trunks and heavy limbs on trees worth keeping, installed and inspected to industry standards.
- Insurance-Required Tree Removal → Clearing trees and limbs an insurer has flagged before a policy renewal or non-renewal deadline, with documentation.
- View Pruning → Opening up bay, hill, and valley views with selective thinning and reduction that keeps the tree healthy and the neighbors on side.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to prune an olive tree?
UC IPM recommends pruning olives in the dry season, July through August, because wounds made in dry summer weather are not susceptible to olive knot, a bacterial disease spread by rain splash and tools. If an olive must be pruned in the rainy season, UC advises disinfecting the blades before each cut.
When should I prune apple, pear, and plum trees?
UC Master Gardener guidance puts the main dormant pruning of most deciduous fruit trees in January and February, with a lighter summer pruning to control size. Apricots and cherries are the exception: UC sources recommend pruning them in summer to avoid wood-infecting disease that enters wounds in wet weather.
How much should be cut off each year?
Less than most people think. One UC Master Gardener answer suggests removing roughly 20 to 30 percent of a fruit tree each year. Old, neglected trees are usually brought back over two or three seasons rather than all at once.
What does fruit tree pruning cost?
It depends on how many trees, their size and condition, and whether you want the brush chipped or hauled. A row of young trees on a yearly schedule costs much less than restoring large, neglected trees or big old olives. Get a written quote after a site visit.
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